COCONUTS CRITIC'S TABLE — “Dessert is actually least Australian dish of the meal,” introduced our server. It was a bowl of coconut mousse, jackfruit ice-cream, over longans, fresh coconut flesh, almonds, and ginger cake, scattered with broken coconut macarons and flower petals. It looked like an artfully smashed pavlova, though less sweet, with the pungency of the jackfruit introduced at a non-offensive level.
Three weeks into the official opening of Whitegrass, and chef Sam Aisbett, former head chef at Quay Restaurant and Tetsuya’s Sydney alumni, is still playing it safe.