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Coconuts Critic's Table: Comfort Chinese in the 'burbs

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Coconuts Critic's Table: Joyden Canton KitchenCoconut’s Critics Table—Flash new concepts can be fun. But sometimes, we do crave old fashioned comfort food. Everyone needs a reliable catch-all neighbourhood spot: just right for a quick lunch, family dinner or casual date. Goodness knows, slick new restos are dime a dozen these days. But a place that's solid and homey? That’s a tough find. For Upper Bukit Timah residents though, Joyden Canton Kitchen just might be a contender. For sure, their soothing Chinese eats have wide appeal. The place draws a diverse cliental: NS men, retirees and young families — a nice cross section of society. Dishes are simple and satisfying. Prices are not too high. (The fish maw and prawns [$18.80] is easily half the price of similar plates at restaurants in the city centre.) Plus, we like the comfortable but unintimidating vibe. Basic light wood furnishings dominate. And the eatery has a good view of the Bukit Timah greenery. An added perk to being out in the ‘burbs, there’s lots of space too. We appreciate how the tables at Joyden are spread wide apart. No one can eavesdrop on your conversations and you are saved the dreaded butt-in-the-face when folks at the next table shuffle out of their seats. Though the food won’t win any fine-dining awards, it showcases a light deft touch. The Hakka salt poached farm chicken ($17) isn’t as briny as more traditional versions, but is still juicy and tender. The braised homemade beancurd coin ($14.80) has nice bounce to it — almost like a creamy fish ball. Set on a bed of soft yielding cabbage, it’s the perfect thing to eat on a rainy day.   Soups are warm and nourishing. Don’t miss the chicken, huai shan and wolfberry soup ($12.80), which comes in a whole coconut. The broth is light and clear but the aroma is deeply coconut-ty. We could down a bowl daily. Another standout is the rice vermicelli with poached egg white, crabmeat and scallop ($15.80). Smoky wok charred vermicelli is topped with thick sticky sauce. And the richness is cut with a biting swirl of black vinegar —it’s a great balance. If you don’t live in the area though, getting to the Joyden is quite a schlep. (Even if they do offer regular shuttles from Bukit Gombak MRT station to the mall.) It’s great for Westsiders but not exactly destination dining for the rest of us. Also, service is spotty. When we walked in requesting a table (it’s a no reservations joint) the glum-faced hostess told us to wait, with no indication of how long (a third of the tables were unoccupied). Fortunately, another — more enterprising — server stepped forward ushering us to an empty table. Once inside though, the staff is efficient and food arrives fast. If you’re looking for on point Chinese grub in the West, Joyden’s a safe bet.    Coconut’s Critics Table reviews are written based on unannounced visits by our writers and paid for by Coconuts Singapore. No freebies here. Joyden Canton Kitchen is at #02-21 HillV2, 4 Hillview Rise, 6465-9988. Open Mon — Sun 11:30am —9:30pm.   More Coconuts Critic's Table:  There are surely more fun ways to be vegetarian than Sufood Points for effort, but Arterial lacks cafe magic Sweet treats and croc meat can't disguise desperate mood at Table @ Pip's

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