In a town overrun with retro cafes, it’s easy to forget true heritage restaurants. But before there were refurbished spots dishing out hipster brunch, there were these oldies, offering rib-sticking Chinese fare. Places where you could get regional specialties — Hokkien, Teochew or even northern Chinese — served up by no-nonsense wait staff. These three joints put out grub that truly stands the test of time.
Beng Hiang (top pic)
112-116 Amoy St., 6221-6695.
Cuisine: Hokkien
Open Since: 1978 (36 years old)
Set on Amoy Street—just down the road from prime watering holes like Jigger & Pony — this eatery is an unconventional but smart place to fuel up before a late night bar hop. Their fried Hokkien noodles (from $8) are greasy in the best possible way (guaranteed to pad the stomach, guarding against any tipsiness). And you never leave hungry because everyone gets thick red bean soup free, for dessert. It’s also a favourite over Chinese New Year. The décor is festive season ready — from the bright red entrance to the pink melamine plates — and the shredded duck salad (from $18) is a great alternative to yu sheng. It’s just as colourful and tastes similar, but is much easier on the pocket.
Hung Kang
28 North Canal Rd., 6533-5300.
Cuisine: Teochew
Open Since: 1962 (52 years old)
Started by a group of wealthy businessmen or towkays in 1962, this Teochew stalwart gets a steady stream of regulars who return time and again for specialties like deep fried liver roll ($16.80) and sliced goose (from $15). Their plating is strictly of the dump-and-serve variety and everything comes with curly parsley for garnish (a real blast from the past). But with food this good, it’s hard to care. They’ve also retained the tradition of serving tiny cups of bitter tea at the start and end of the meal. This aids digestion and if you’re planning to pig out here, it’s a must.
Jing Hua
21 Neil Rd., 6221-3060; 159 Rochor Rd., 6337-7601; #B1-04/05 Palais Renaissance, 390 Orchard Rd., 6733-8231.
Cuisine: Northern Chinese
Open Since: 1989 (25 years old)
Founded in 1989 on Neil Road, this old school eating house has just opened a third outlet at tai-tai hangout Palais Renaissance. There, as with the other branches, dig into xiao long bao ($5 for four pieces) as well as pan fried mixed seafood and pork dumplings ($9.50 for 10 pieces). Their dumplings aren’t quite as delicate as some fancier versions in town. But they really hit the spot when you’re craving something hearty and substantial. You get plenty of bang for your buck too — especially at the new Palais Renaissance location. With nearly everything on the menu under $10, it’s easily the best value meal in the chi-chi building.
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11 Singapore cafes so retro they give us fever
In a town overrun with retro cafes, it’s easy to forget true heritage restaurants. But before there were refurbished spots dishing out hipster brunch, there were these oldies, offering rib-sticking Chinese fare. Places where you could get regional specialties — Hokkien, Teochew or even northern Chinese — served up by no-nonsense wait staff. These three joints put out grub that truly stands the test of time.
Beng Hiang (top pic)
112-116 Amoy St., 6221-6695.
Cuisine: Hokkien
Open Since: 1978 (36 years old)
Set on Amoy Street—just down the road from prime watering holes like Jigger & Pony — this eatery is an unconventional but smart place to fuel up before a late night bar hop. Their fried Hokkien noodles (from $8) are greasy in the best possible way (guaranteed to pad the stomach, guarding against any tipsiness). And you never leave hungry because everyone gets thick red bean soup free, for dessert. It’s also a favourite over Chinese New Year. The décor is festive season ready — from the bright red entrance to the pink melamine plates — and the shredded duck salad (from $18) is a great alternative to yu sheng. It’s just as colourful and tastes similar, but is much easier on the pocket.
Hung Kang
28 North Canal Rd., 6533-5300.
Cuisine: Teochew
Open Since: 1962 (52 years old)
Started by a group of wealthy businessmen or towkays in 1962, this Teochew stalwart gets a steady stream of regulars who return time and again for specialties like deep fried liver roll ($16.80) and sliced goose (from $15). Their plating is strictly of the dump-and-serve variety and everything comes with curly parsley for garnish (a real blast from the past). But with food this good, it’s hard to care. They’ve also retained the tradition of serving tiny cups of bitter tea at the start and end of the meal. This aids digestion and if you’re planning to pig out here, it’s a must.
Jing Hua
21 Neil Rd., 6221-3060; 159 Rochor Rd., 6337-7601; #B1-04/05 Palais Renaissance, 390 Orchard Rd., 6733-8231.
Cuisine: Northern Chinese
Open Since: 1989 (25 years old)
Founded in 1989 on Neil Road, this old school eating house has just opened a third outlet at tai-tai hangout Palais Renaissance. There, as with the other branches, dig into xiao long bao ($5 for four pieces) as well as pan fried mixed seafood and pork dumplings ($9.50 for 10 pieces). Their dumplings aren’t quite as delicate as some fancier versions in town. But they really hit the spot when you’re craving something hearty and substantial. You get plenty of bang for your buck too — especially at the new Palais Renaissance location. With nearly everything on the menu under $10, it’s easily the best value meal in the chi-chi building.
Read Also:
5 good Japanese buffets under $40
Coconuts Critic's Table: There are surely more fun ways to be vegetarian than Sufood
11 Singapore cafes so retro they give us fever